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Ken Roberts - - Bicycling what's herephotos see also: more Europe stories | public discussion | more on Europe isle de Corse / CorsicaWe had a great time riding on this island in the Mediterranean Sea south of France -- see photos what's here
overview
Hilly?
Maps
bases for ridingWorked well for us as a base:
Plus quick car access to D81B southwest of Calvi, and west coast of Cap Corse, and to St Florent riding. Plus some ferry access, perhaps even a multi-day ride down to Porto and take the ferry back to l'Ile Rousse. Plus easy road access to Corte, Bastia, Calvi. These towns look promising to as possible future bases (but we didn't try them as bases, nor have we checked most of the routes possibly accessed from them):
Car-served bike descents from Col de Vergio (west or east sides) could be fun. If ferry is operating, could take ferry to Galeria and ride back one-way 51 km (includes over 11km of rough pavement as of 2004). Or even do a long one-way 81 km ride (overnight in Galeria?) (includes two sections total over 27 km of rough pavement as of 2004) by taking ferry up to Calvi. Piana and Cargese are nice sea-view villages nearby, and Evisa is a nice mountain village for more of a hiking focus (or up-and-back ride thru high evergreen forests to Col de Vergio)
Not promising as bases:
rides we didThese are some rides we did on our tandem: More details on each one . . . l'Île Rousse - Belgodere - Cateni loopOne of the great medium-size loops (around 53 km / 33 miles) we've ever ridden anywhere. Seaside views + city, several hill-villages, big views out across a large agricultural valley (with the sea beyond), animals visible along the road, lots of sounds of animals, and views of mountains. Climb up to the D71 was rather gentle, and then the D71 took an amazingly gentle and well-graded course around the east and south and west rim of the valley. By riding clockwise, we stayed on outside of curves on D71 for views and photos. We rode this clockwise loop:
future -- things to consider if we rode it again (but we didn't check them):
Coti-Chiavari loop (south of Ajaccio)Many pretty views of sea, near beaches, and Golfe d'Ajaccio. Great view of rocky beaches south toward Capo di Muro. Farm areas with sea view just west of Coti-Chiavari are very pretty. Rather pleasant riding with some views on D55 north from Coti-Chiavari to Col de Gradello. Fun long descent on D255A West (from intersection with 255). One steep climb (on D155 between Portigliolo and Acqua Doria) -- at least 10% (one source suggested there is a 13% segment) -- we got off and walked much of it. Another mod-steep climb in the midst of run along beaches -- the thru there is gentle-moderate. Long climb from north of Acqua Doria on D155 South and D55A East up to Coti-Chiavari. D55 from Coti-Chiavari north to Col de Gradello is mostly gentle-to-moderate. Food possible at Acqua Doria, Coti-Chiavari, Col de Gradello (D255-D55 intersection). the pizza shop in Coti-Chiavari is out-of-business. We rode this counter-clockwise loop:
Alternatives:
Gorges du Prunelli (east of Ajaccio)Pleasant riding, some nice views of rocky hills and a pretty lake and village of Tolla, fun descent on D27 west. Roads were very well-graded. Nothing very steep. Food possible in Bastelica, perhaps some other places. Summary of our route
Alternatives:
Cap of the Cap loop (northeast tip of island)Combines hills + hill-villages + sea views. Some goats on the road, but not much agriculture. Not much dramatic rock outcroppings. Key feature-set versus other hill+sea routes is that it's a true loop in a very remote setting. (Might want to combine this ride with a second day of remote hiking on the famous hiking trail on the north end of Cap Corse.) minimum 53 km, with two cols, but we would again add a little to visit some hill-village(s) around Rogliano, and the side-trip to Pino -- for a total of perhaps 60 km / 37 miles. We rode this counter-clockwise loop:
(if do this route again, would definitely visit Rogliano again for the variety and view, but not all the way up to Vignale)
(except that we had severe problems with our rear tire, so we left our bike just below the west side of col, and Ken jogged-walked down thru village of Luri to the car, then drove back and picked up Sharon and the bike.) future -- things to consider if we rode it again (but we didn't check them):
east Provence around Nice + CannesWe had only a few days in this area, but it was pretty nice, and we'd be glad to go back -- see photos. This was part of our trip to Corsica -- for more see that report above. bases for riding: for car-supported, worked well for us to stay near an exit of the A8 near Cannes and Nice. some rides whose start-finish points could be considered within possible day-trip car-driving range from the hotel: (a) hills north of Nice -- if like hilly riding and visiting hill-villages -- like say around l'Escarene or Peillon or Tourrette-Levens; (b) Vence has at least a couple of loops; (c) Touet-sur-Var has a couple of big loops. maps: We used mostly Michelin 341 Local : Alpes-Maritimes. These are some of the rides we did on our tandem: and routes which Ken rode or checked solo: More details on each . . . Esterel Mountains + Sea (west of Cannes)Overview:
We rode this Counter-clockwise loop:
future -- things to consider if we rode it again (but we didn't check them):
Gorges du LoupTypical gorge ride -- long well-graded, mostly-decently-paved climb up to a village. The village of Gourdon is not large, but what's there is nicely decorated -- though the shops are more for perfumes than food snacks. (I felt I'd want to add something more to this route to make it interesting enough: see Alternative below.) We rode this Counter-clockwise loop:
future -- things to consider if we rode it again (but we didn't check them):
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Grand Corniche (D2564) by NiceD2564 Nice - La Turbie - Roquebrune Ken rode his bicycle from Nice up over Col de l'Eze to La Turbie and back, also drove the whole road west-bound in car. It had pretty views, and not much traffic on a mid-week afternoon. Note that the Moyenne Corniche is the N7. There is also a "Deux Corniches" road which connects with the Grand Corniche during the steep hill near Nice. Which Direction?
Finding it: The bottom of the west end this road in the city of Nice is called Blvd Bischoffsheim. It crosses west over the Blvd St.Roch (north-south, has other names), and becomes Av des Diables Bleus. From the D19 south, after it Bears Right one-way south away from river, look for signs for Monaco + Menton and turn left to go east on bridges across river and railroad tracks, then turn south -- main street south becomes Blvd St.Roch, but there are various side streets (e.g. left on Blvd Braille parallel east) with less traffic. From Blvd St.Roch south, at traffic light left turn with signs for La Turbie + Grand Corniche. The bottom of the east end was easily found from the A8 Roquebrune exit -- look for signs for La Turbie. southern Alpes Maritimes mountainsNice mix of sea and mountains. I liked riding along the Mediterranean early on a weekend morning. I liked especially the D19 descent from Levens into Nice, and the D2565 along Vesubie was pleasant, so was north descent from Col de Castillon. I did not like the descent west from Col de Turini: too precipitious with too many tight curves (perhaps the descent to Pierra and Luceram would have been more fun -- then turn north to get back to the St.Martin-Vesubie road). 2008 note: That descent was one of my first big downhills in the Alps. Since then I've gained a lot in experience and technique -- so it's possible that if I rode it again I'd be able to enjoy it more. And the climb to Col de Turini went on for too long at the end without good views. Perhaps I'd like this col better in the south-bound direction? I rode this Counter-clockwise loop:
future -- things to consider if I rode it again (but I didn't check them): Alternatives to avoid Col de Turini: I noticed that several riders came from (or to) the Col de Braus. Perhaps that's another a way up from Nice. Or perhaps they come from Luceram by Col de l'Ablé.
Other alternatives I might possibly consider (but I didn't check them):
Gorges du Cians - Col de la Couillole loopDramatic rocks, red and white, in the Gorge. Pretty on the N202 West along the Var River. Pleasant thru Beuil and across Col de la Couillole. Good descent east from Col down to St.Sauveur-sur-Tinée. Pleasant riding down the Tinée river. I rode this Clockwise loop:
Road Exploration driving west + south of GrasseIt was so windy that I felt I could not ride, so I explored some roads driving my rental car. I did not find any loops of good riding -- didn't look better than the Hudson valley, and lots of curvy roads that did not make me feel comfortable. And the "cols" are so low and gentle that it does not have much of the charactor of the "Alps". So this day made me decide to give up on trying to connect from St-Tropez, or even Mandelieu for my "Route des Grandes Alpes" -- and instead focus on connecting from Menton. mountain passes of Alps around BrianconHere's the rides I did in the Alps in September: More details on each of those . . . Col d'Izoard / Durance river loopOverall: great loop with great variety and great views -- if have the legs for all the climbing. Perhaps the sections on West side of Durance River are prettier than much of the Izoard climb above the gorge and below the switchbacks. I included the famous Col d'Izoard in this counter-clockwise loop: From the city of Briancon I rode south along mostly the west side of the Durance river, with lots of big views east and south across the valley and glimpses west into the snow-capped peaks of the Ecrins National Park (and one climb on the D38 steeper than anything on the famous Col). Then I crossed the river east to Guillestre, and climbed up thru the Queyras mountains, first thru a steep-walled river gorge, then up to the south "high desert" side of the Col d'Izoard. Finished down the north side back down into Briancon. And I discovered that I could be guided thru most of that loop by yellow arrows painted on the road with label "EM" (? Embrun Man ?) Details of my riding:
villages on this climb could be prettier, perhaps a bit over-developed (climb got a bit boring here) - switchbacks for Izoard reasonable, not more than 1.5 km of coarse-stone pavement. Interesting how you first get to the “false summit” of Casse Deserte, in a stark landscape, then a little down, then the final switchbacks to the
The whole loop (except where I shortcutted thru Mont Dauphin) had road-paint marks and arrows saying “EM” (? perhaps stands for “Embrun Man” ?) Col du Montgenevre / Col de l'Echelle loopI included Col du Montgenevre in a loop with the city of Briancon and with Col de l'Echelle. Overall: Worthwhile loop I would do again in the same direction. I saw several local riders climbing up the Vallee to Nevache, and several day-trippers going over Montgenevre, one party W-bound, and soloist E-bound. Starting in Briancon, steep climb getting north out of town (Petsche - Republique - Liberation - Chemin du Barry), up well-designed switchbacks with big views back to the ancient fortress and mountains, over the Col de Montgenevre (? altitude 1854m ?) east-bound into Italy, with an exciting descent mostly on new smooth pavement with big views down to Cesana Torinese. Then more moderate downhill on new pavement to Oulx. Moderate climb to Bardonecchia, then some steep switchbacks going west back into France and over Col de l'Echelle (? Italian = "Scala" ?) (? altitude 1750m ?), with 2 km thru rocky crags up high before a shorter descent to a gentle section of the Vallee de la Claree, and I enjoyed the low-key village of Nevache, then a long moderate descent south to the main road, and more views down back to Briancon. Comments:
Col du Mont Cenis over + backI started from Susa, Italy and felt real good and strong climbing up this big one (something 1500 meters / 5000 ft), road well designed. Up high it was wonderful to ride along the big beautiful blue Lac du Mont Cenis and look north to snow in the Vanoise. My intent was to do just the south side as an out-and-back day, but then at the top a French rider caught me -- and talked me into descending the other side into France for a snack with him in Lanslebourg. Then I had to climb up to the Col again and go back over it south-bound. Onerous until I had the joy of big high lake again -- then down thousands of vertical feet of wonderful smooth pavement on the Italian side back to my car parked in Susa. Col du Mont Cenis loop with busI missed this opportunity to do Col du Mont Cenis in a loop route: Over coffee, I think I understood the rider from St Jean de Maurienne to say (in my limited comprehension of French) that he was doing a loop tour: He had parked his car in Modane (north side in France), and taken his bike on the bus thru the big tunnel to Bardonecchia (south side in Italy), rode to Susa, and then climbed over the Col du Mont Cenis back to France. Wish I could of thought of that. Not sure which direction I'd want to ride it: Although the French rider did it counter-clockwise, I'm leaning toward clockwise, to take the south side going downhill. Colle della Finestre loop : Cesana Torinese + Sestriere + SusaI'm not sure whether to call this a horrible road loop or a big "mountain bike" adventure challenge. I decided to ride from Sestriere to Susa (all in Italy) as a loop, starting from Cesana and returning thru Oulx. Bad idea. I started with the climb up to Sestreire from Cesana Torinese. It has a long gentle traverse in its middle with great views -- I'd happily do that again sometime. Next my map showed a "high route" to Susa across the Testa dell'Assiette and Colle delle Finestre. I figured it would have great views from along the top of the ridge. And it did have big views. But it was all a dirt road. With rocks. With climbs and descents. For a while it was an interesting challenge, trying it on my narrow-tire road bike with no suspension. But there was altogether too much of it -- like around 50 km / 30 miles on dirt. My arms and butt were hammered by the constant bouncing on the rocks. I'm glad I had only to fix one flat tire along the way. Details on climbing up from Sestiere: dirt road (marked to "Assietta") up to Colle Basset, then and all the way East along the ridge and then below on its South side. Then climb up to Colle della Finestre (last climb not as long as expected). I encountered a few motorcycles up there, and then to my surprise coming the other way another bicycle with panniers loaded for a multi-day tour. The rider spoke excellent English to me. He had started his randonnee from Geneva, and he thought he'd try this road because it looked more interesting, but it was very hard and he doubted I would make it to Susa that day. I thought I understand him to say that he had left Susa the day before. I did not ask him where or how he had spent the night out. After I crossed the Colle delle Finestre and started down to Susa and understand how it had taken him more than a day. I could not believe how long I kept going down on dirt with rocks. Finally I reached pavement, but still an amazing number of tight switchbacks to Meana di Susa, and still more down on normal wide road to Susa. I'm very impressed that other rider was able to climb up all that with a loaded touring bike. Comments: Pretty views from the dirt road, but it goes on much too long, and my arms and butt got vibrated too much from all the little rocks. The downhill from Finestre to Susa also goes on much too long. About 0.5km W from the junction of the E-W ridge road with the road going N over Finestre, I saw a paved road with a sign that said Usseaux. So a possible alternative (which I have not checked) might be to descend the S23 East from Sestriere, then from Usseaux (or Finestrelle?) climb N up to Finestre. Overall: I'm thinking that better than climbing over Finestre is to just ride the S24 from Cesana to Susa. The S24 was in good condition down to Oulx, and most (though not all) good to Susa -- and generally downhill. Then treat Sestriere as a pretty out-and-back spur side-trip. (Those who must experience the dirt can keep climbing up to Colle Basset, and return down the same way to Sestriere.) Next time: I think I would try to follow the idea of that French rider I talked with in Lanslebourg -- of using a bus ride thru Tunnel de Frejus to make a loop between the Lanslebourg and Modane in the Maurienne valley and Oulx and Susa in Italy - (which neatly overlaps with my Briancon - Montgenevre - Bardonecchia - Nevache loop). Optionally add the beautiful climb from Cesana Torines to Sestriere as an out-and-back side trip. Paris city rideplaces + streets we rode on a Saturday:
comments: There was lots of vehicle traffic on Saturday. We didn’t get to see much of the Seine River from the roads along it -- mostly saw the river by crossing it on bridges, or getting off the bike and walking to where we could see. Places I liked: Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe photos, Notre Dame Cathedral and Ile St Louis, the canal area, the bridge with golden lions. Overall, it seemed that the sites of Paris are more designed to be seen walking (or skating), and taking the Metro or taxi between them. Next time I think I might pick a few sites worth riding to, then lock the bike, take the bags+packs off the bike and carry with us, and walk around. more . . .see also
concept words: roberts Europe European visit trip vacation holiday American visitor report reports bicycling: bicycle bicycling bike bikes bicycles bicyclist cycle cyclist cycling touring riding rider riders routes: route routes ride rides tour tours map maps places: place river valley state country region regions area areas city town village fahrrad rad radfahren radtour touren routen velo tour tours route routes velotour cyclisme bici bicicletta percorso itinerario visita giro turistico Frankreich Francia |
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